Computer scrap gold money WITHOUT chemicals or mechanical processing

In this video I show how you can still make money on scrap computer parts without refining the parts yourself, so there is no use of chemicals, no tedious work in crushing and grounding parts, no burning and melting. Just a quick way of getting it exported with correct paperwork and get the money directly to your bank account.

Selling whole parts will ofcourse yield a lower price then processing it all yourself, but equipment, chemicals, refining, work hours, wear and tear on your stuff is all important factors to count into the equation, last but certainly not least, take care of your own health! Chemicals and fine dust from crushing electronics is not good for your body if you fail to protect it correctly.

This is the part 1 of 2 video and the second video will be about the process after the packet has been sent, comparison with my estimate and what is really paid out. I expect to have part 2 ready in a week or so.

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How I came to build a 4 meter spark generating Tesla coil, a technical story from 2008 to 2016.

Here is the recording of the live stream I did on 2018 January 31, Wednesday at 2000 CET, I performed a live stream on youtube to talk about how I started building Tesla coils, the journey that went on for 8 years which ended with me having a 3 meter tall Tesla coil that can do 4 meter sparks. Questions was asked and answered along the session.

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FPS1000HD high speed camera unboxing and first impressions

I ordered the FPS1000 platinum back in April 2015 on kickstarters backerkit site, then in March decided to upgrade to the platinum double.

Fast forward 1½ years and the projects stalls, a new kickstarter for the FPS1000HD was started (which was a new name for the platinum double), it was offered to get a refund or camera from the original kickstarter, but only when time and money in the company allowed for it. I chose to get the camera and now I have it!

First impressions on a camera that I can not yet turn on.
– Looks and feels good
– Stock lens seems a little too cheap, but that is just from looking at it, no idea about actual performance
– The back cover plastic part around the LCD has sharp edges all around it, sharp enough to give a cut in the finger :(
– The screws mounting the fans on the front is not aligned with the surface of the front plate, so they go above the surface and can get stuck in things since its concave heads
– Manual is missing more specific information, especially on what power adapter to use and what kind of power plug it actually has!
– There really should have been a power supply with it, it is a expensive product and the hassle with finding a suitable one already set me back one power supply not usable since I just had to guess on the jack size from pictures.

 

Above is a new video with a explanation of the setup I have used with the camera and what my first impressions are so far.

I have used the stock 35mm lens a couple of times, but most of the time I find it much better to use my huge Ernitec F1.8 16-160mm lens, it does however has it limits as it can not focus below 50 mm, but this is not really a practical issue as it is used for gaining a lot of range to whatever it is I am filming, this is nice if its explosions or electrical discharges.

Battery life is around 1 hour as expected, get a fast charger! USB chargers are simply too slow for 2500mA batteries.

Reading the manual is a must (I never thought I should say that) as the user interface is not intuitive when it comes to the advanced commands.

The PC software is simple but does its job very well, after I got a USB3 cable there will be no more saving data to SD card unless I am forced to do that, the transfer speed of the USB3 is about 100 times greater!

I just need 3 things. Light, light and more light

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Youtube removes monetization for all small channels!

I hope that everyone will watch this video as the changes youtube is making has a much larger impact on the electronics / high voltage community than just my own channel.

I hope you will help me spread the word of my channel to your friends, colleagues, study buddies and so on.

In the next 30 days I have to gain 200 subscribers and 1500 watch hours in order to stay in the youtube partner program where I can make a little revenue on my videos. If I am not getting the money, youtube is keeping it for themself for the future.

Help the small channels and let me know if you have a channel that need help by being just as close to the goal as I am 🙂

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Building the OpenTheremin V3

Introduction

I received a bare board and some of the SMD components for a OpenThereminV3, it is a semi-assembled kit that can be bought from Gaudi ( http://www.gaudi.ch/OpenTheremin/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=180&Itemid=115 ). The board I got was from a previous unsoldered kit where you have to buy all the components yourself. This totalled to another 35€ in parts as I do not have much SMD components in stock.

It is made as a shield that mounts directly on a Arduino Uno, which also makes the programmering very easy. Plug in USB, download source code from github, download the source to the controller and start playing on your new theremin!

The whole building process is very easy from just looking at the parts list and the schematic when you are in doubt, the silk screen layout is almost good enough to just use that along with parts list to solder it up correctly.

 

Construction

November 26, 2017

I made a video of the soldering and building process with a bit of testing it at the end 🙂

Here is some more detailed photos of the enclosure, antennas and boards inside. Starting with the Open Theremin V3 board where it is all soldered up and I am fairly satisfied with the result as I just used my regular soldering iron used for DIP components and a very thin solder.

The Arduino Uno board mounts directly on top of it and fits nicely inside of the enclosure.

I used 4 different colour knobs for the potentiometers so it was easier to remember which is volume, pitch, register and timbre, as I did not have anything in mind to use as a front with texts on.

The antennas is all done by hand and bend around a wine bottle, easily done and the result is absolutely perfect!

I did a quick test setup where it was just connected to a tube amplifier I have in my lab, in the future I will try to modify it for MIDI output which there is a separate guide on ( http://www.gaudi.ch/OpenTheremin/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=200&Itemid=121 )

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Happy New Year 2018 slow motion special!

Happy new year to all the readers, followers, subscribers, liker’s and users that has to do with reading, commenting and writing on www.kaizerpowerelectronics.dk or www.highvoltageforum.net

I have filmed a small new year special video for you all! See you all in 2018 for more high voltage exploration and experimentation!

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Teardown of a medium voltage fuse (7200 V / 200 A)

I got my hands of a old NEBB (Norsk Elektriske Brown Boveri) medium voltage fuse, rated for 7200 V, 200 A and 350 MVA. My best guess from the company name is that it originates from before 1988 where NEBB was merged with ASEA into ABB.

Medium voltage fuses are used at the secondary side of distribution transformers, which are often the link from the transmission grid to the distribution grid.

Here is the video of the teardown and below are some of the pictures, which also are used in the video.

The fuse implements a Striker system that is a series of trigger mechanisms to let a spring loaded pin fly out of one end, in case of a fuse failure, to activate a mechanical shutdown or electrical feedback when there is a blown fuse due to over-voltage, over-current or too high temperature.

Here the disassembled fuse can be seen, the blown fuse element and the single small parts of the chain that has blown apart nice and evenly. Typically a single wire in a fuse will cause a over-voltage surge. To resolve the over-voltage problem, it has been necessary to divide fuse elements into sections, thereby causing them to blow gradually. In technical terms, this is achieved by punching notches into a smooth strip. The fuse element is made from pure silver (999)

Silver is the preferred material for these fuse elements. For a number of reasons relating to physical chemistry, silver ensures the cleanest break. Its low resistance, due to its relative chemical stability, makes it the ideal material for carrying an increased current without the risk of aging (operating temperature of a strip: 180 to 250 °C).

This is usually sand (quartzite), which, by vitrifying, absorbs the high levels of energy developed by the arc and combines with the silver to form an insulating compound known as fulgurite.

The purity of the sand is essential to ensure reliable breaking in all areas, as is the absence of metallic compounds and humidity. Furthermore, its initial bulk ensures that the pressure (and therefore the voltage) of the arc channel is maintained.

Its granularity is selected according to the following data, which has been drawn from
experience:

  • too fine a granularity (< 20 µ) is very
    detrimental as its high density, which slows down
    the diffusion of the fuse metal between the
    grains of sand, makes the gradual elongation
    and subsequent extinction of the arc difficult
  • fine granularity facilitates breaks early in the fault current but also favours over-voltages
  • coarse granularity facilitates breaks late in the fault current.

Modifying the granularity also enables the time/current characteristic in the zone 10 ms, 500 ms to be made more concave.

The still intact fulgurites from the melted fuse element can be seen here in greater detail. It is really interesting to see how the inside is now a insulated glass tunnel and the small silver beads have been pressed out and fused with the sand. The structure of the fuse element creates fulgurites that has alternating white stripes containing silver beads and yellow stribes that is only sand/glass.

 

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Taking a look at the Toshiba Toughbook CF-18 vintage computer

Here is a laptop, used for field engineering work back from 2006 where it was released. I am doing a quick overview and demonstration of this laptop. A glimpse of computer history to have a record of things, as this was decommissioned.

 

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5kJ capacitor bank fired at 12kVDC / 3.5kJ charge

Third experiment with the bank of 35 electrolytic capacitors connected in series. Results are better than theoretical estimate, which was 6000 A limited by ESR, so getting just over 7000 A is good, but the result is still a little tame when it comes to action. These tests had the bank charged at at 12000 VDC which corresponds to 3.5 kJ stored energy..

All discussion about this bank can be found on the forum: https://highvoltageforum.net/index.php?topic=25.msg1056;topicseen#new

The first test video can be seen at: http://kaizerpowerelectronics.dk/highvoltage/5kj-capacitor-bank-1-5kj-bang-test-at-end/

The second test video can be seen at: http://kaizerpowerelectronics.dk/highvoltage/5kj-capacitor-bank-fired-at-2kj-charge/

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Teardown of a IBM Blade server HS22V

Here I am doing a teardown on a IBM HS22V blade server dated back to 2010.

The IBM BladeCenter HS22V blade server supports up to two multi-core Intel Xeon microprocessors and has eighteen memory-module slots, two SSD storage-drives bays, one Horizontal-compact-form-factor (CFFh) expansion card connector, one Vertical-combination-I/O (CIOv) connector, and one internal USB connector.

Microprocessor:

  • Supports up to two multi-core Intel Xeon E/X 55/5600 series microprocessors

Memory:

  • 18 dual inline memory module (DIMM) connectors
  • Type: Very Low Profile (VLP) double-data rate (DDR3) DRAM. Supports 1 GB, 2 GB, 4 GB, 8 GB, and 16 GB DIMMs with up to 288 GB of total memory on the system board
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